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To Catch or Catch NotCasting for nada y nada in the footsteps of Hemingway, on the rivers of northern Spain. By Florence Williams
Mikel knows I want to fish the river Hemingway loved (and wrote about in The Sun Also Rises and Death in the Afternoon), the Río Irati. This makes him dislike me, but he gets over it. It helps that I adore Silvio Rodriguez, the Cuban musician crooning soulfully out of the tape deck. And Mikel enjoys the fact that I've been stymied by Spain's post-Franco bureaucracy. It took all day Monday (or the part not spent in Gothic churches) to get the requisite fishing permits. Now it's Tuesday, and fishing here is illegal on Tuesday. Not even the mayor can challenge the rules of the local fishing association. My troubles put Mikel in a better mood. "No problema," he says. "We go drink café and drive along the river."
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